Among all the critiques aimed at tallow-based skincare, the number one argument, and the one most frequently touted by skeptics, is this:
“Tallow clogs your pores.”
This claim sits at the heart of the anti-tallow conversation. But is it grounded in science or speculation?
To unpack this properly, we’ll explore:
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What the comedogenic scale actually is (and how it came to be),
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Tallow’s comedogenic rating, or lack thereof, and
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A critical look at what the available data really tells us.
Let’s separate the facts from fear-based rhetoric.
Understanding the Comedogenic Scale
The comedogenic scale is a tool used to estimate how likely an ingredient is to clog pores and form comedones (blackheads or whiteheads).
A rating of 2 suggests that tallow has a low likelihood of clogging pores for most people, including those with sensitive skin.
For context:
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Coconut oil scores a 4–5
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Jojoba oil scores 1–2
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Olive oil scores 2–3
However, tallow's rating comes with important caveats that deserve attention.
⚠️ Tallow’s Rating Was Never Actually Measured
Despite being widely cited as a 2 on the comedogenic scale, tallow was never tested directly in the original lab experiments.
The comedogenic scale was developed in the 1970s–80s using rabbit ear assays, where ingredients were applied to rabbit ears and evaluated for pore blockages. Dermatologists like Dr. Albert Kligman and Dr. James Fulton were pioneers of this method, and their research formed the basis for most of the comedogenic ratings still cited today.
But here’s the kicker: tallow was never included in those tests.
Instead, its rating was extrapolated based on its fatty acid composition, particularly:
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Stearic acid – the majority of tallow, and non-comedogenic (rated 0–1)
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Palmitic acid – also non-comedogenic (rated 0–1)
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Oleic acid – moderately comedogenic (rated 2–3)
Formulators, dermatologists, and ingredient databases guessed that tallow would land somewhere around 2.
That number stuck—and was repeated until everyone took it as fact.
🧪 Why the Comedogenic Scale Has Major Limitations
The comedogenic scale can be a helpful guide, but it’s far from a hard rule. Here’s why it needs to be taken with a grain of salt:
1. It’s based on rabbit ears, not human skin.
Rabbit skin is far more sensitive than human skin and tends to overreact.
Ingredients like petrolatum, which show high comedogenicity in rabbits, are often non-comedogenic in humans.
2. The methodology wasn’t standardized.
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Different labs used different concentrations, application durations, and grading systems
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Some ingredients were tested pure, others diluted, and results weren’t always comparable
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Limited human testing was done, and the few follow-up trials took place on the backs of young male prisoners, not facial skin, limiting generalizability to real-world skincare use
3. Ingredient ≠ finished product.
An ingredient rated 3 at 100% concentration might not be comedogenic at 10% in a formula. The product’s full formulation, including how it’s emulsified and what it's paired with, matters greatly.
4. Tallow was never tested directly.
There is no published rabbit ear or human trial that evaluated pure beef tallow for comedogenicity. The “2” rating is an educated guess, not a scientifically verified measurement.
🧬 Your Skin Produces “Comedogenic” Oils — and That’s Normal
Interestingly, your own skin naturally produces oils that would be considered comedogenic when judged by the same standards applied to cosmetic ingredients.
Sebum, the oily substance your skin secretes, is made up of fatty acids, wax esters, triglycerides, cholesterol, and squalene. Many of these would receive comedogenic scores in a lab test (for example, oleic acid: 2–3; squalene: comedogenic in its unmodified form).
But here’s the key:
In their natural context, these substances don’t typically clog pores. Unless:
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They’re produced excessively
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They become oxidized
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Or they get trapped under occlusive products or buildup
In fact, your skin needs these oils to stay balanced, hydrated, and protected.
⚠️ Important Context
Comedogenicity is not just about the ingredient. It’s about:
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How much is produced
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Its oxidation state
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The health of your skin microbiome
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Whether it’s being properly cleared
For example, oxidized squalene, which occurs with sun damage or pollution, is known to contribute to comedone formation and inflammation, even though natural, unoxidized squalene is essential for skin barrier health and hydration.
🧬 Tallow’s Unique Composition
What makes tallow so interesting is how closely it mirrors the composition of human sebum. It’s rich in:
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Stearic acid – supportive of the skin barrier
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Palmitic acid – moisturizing and non-comedogenic
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Oleic acid – nourishing but moderately comedogenic at high concentrations
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Cholesterol and triglycerides – found naturally in healthy skin
This fatty acid profile makes tallow deeply compatible with human skin, especially for dry, sensitive, or compromised barriers. It absorbs easily and helps restore moisture—something plant oils and synthetic emulsifiers can struggle with.
💬 Anecdotal Success Stories and Time-Tested Healing
Tallow has been used topically for centuries in cultures across the world - for wound healing, weather protection, and skin nourishment. In the modern skincare world, anecdotal reports often include:
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Reduced redness
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Fewer dry patches
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Balanced oil production
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Improved eczema and dermatitis
We are not saying tallow is for everyone—after all, some people are extremely allergic to peanuts. However, we have never received customer feedback indicating that our tallow caused a reaction or breakout.
🥩 Quality and Source Matter
Not all tallow is equal. How it’s sourced and rendered makes a difference:
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Grass-fed, pasture-raised animals yield higher-quality fat
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Low-heat, traditional rendering preserves nutrients while minimizing risk of degradation
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Tallow should be purified and traditionally rendered to prevent mold and bacterial growth
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It should be free of additives, synthetic fragrances, or fillers that can irritate sensitive skin
✅ Guidelines for Safe Use
If you’re curious about tallow, here’s how to test it safely:
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Patch test before full application
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Use a small amount (pea-sized is enough)
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Apply to damp skin for better absorption
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Avoid layering over acne treatments or exfoliants until you know how your skin reacts
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Choose pure, high-quality tallow balms with minimal ingredients
📌 Conclusion: Is Tallow Comedogenic?
Tallow is often assigned a comedogenic rating of 2, but here’s what that really means:
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The number is an extrapolation, not a lab-proven fact
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The scale it’s based on has serious limitations
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Tallow is rich in skin-friendly fatty acids, many of which are non-comedogenic
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For many, it’s healing and barrier-repairing, especially for dry or sensitive skin
In short, while comedogenicity is a helpful consideration, individual skin response is what matters most. When sourced and used correctly, tallow can be one of the most gentle and nourishing options in skincare.
